Two Days Away

     We just returned from the countryside.  This is our fall break so we have a week off.   Pam and two friends of ours went to a place called Mongolian Secret History Ger Camp.  We stayed in large gers with stoves that didn't warm the place up but did take the chill off.  The weather was great so it wasn't a big issue.  This place was tucked back in a valley blanketed with white birch and pine.  The 3.5 km walk from the road was treeless and could have passed for the desert except for hints of farming on the ground.  During the stroll to the camp we had to negotiate herds of cows, sheep and goats as the herder watched from the back of his horse.  I wonder what was going through his mind as he saw four "pointy noses" with backpacks taking pics of animals at a watering hole.
     The weather was amazingly warm.  We were all sweating after the walk from the road where the bus dropped us off.  Once we made it to the camp we were treated to a great meal that needed to be walked off so we headed into the woods and found some fantastic views from the ridge of the surrounding hills.  The camp also offered horse and camel rides.  We took advantage of the horse rides with a guide that spoke no English but kept our horses moving with "chi, chi" from his lips.  The staff was very attentive to our requests even bringing to our ger a thermos of hot water, tea, coffee and the essential fixings.  Once the sun went down we brought out Yahtzee and Cribbage.  We diluted the competitive juices with wine so that we could go to bed and still be talking to each other.  
      We tried out the local transportation which is comfortable and much cheaper than hiring a driver.  The inside of our bus was decorated with purple trappings with lots of tassels and a large screen tv showing a kaleidoscopic image of someone singing.  This provided a topic for conversation for a number of km.  The ger camp is about two hours NW of UB.  Our cab driver took care of us making sure we got the right tickets and bus to our destination.  He even spoke with the bus driver about where we were headed which was not a normal stop.  We climbed onto the bus and plopped down in the front four seats next to the smiling assistant who tried unsuccessfully to communicate with us.  So, there were mostly smiles exchange between us.  After a rest stop we rumbled down the road with the driver's assistant looking at our map.  He then had a quick conversation with the driver who suddenly made an announcement over the loudspeaker and a young man made his way up front.  Putting the puzzle pieces together we figured that they weren't sure where to drop us off and they were looking for someone to translate or read a map.  The guy who came forward didn't seem to be able to do either.  Then the bus stopped in the middle of the road and proceeded to try and make a three point turn with deep ditches on both sides of the road.  Within a moment we were headed back the way we came as groans and interrogative intonations floated through the bus.  We slumped in our seats realizing that we were the cause of this change in direction and thankful that we didn't have to look into the faces of the passengers.  After only a few km the advising committee to the driver decided that the drop off point for the foreigners was further down the road so another 180 degree turn was made.  After coming over a small knoll there was a sign probably 25 ft. high announcing where the ger camp was.  I think I heard a sigh of relief from behind us as the bus door opened and we got off.  The driver and assistant said good-bye with smiles and we felt good that we introduced the locals to their surrounding venues.

Geoff and Pam hydrating before the 3.5 km trek.  Chinggis works well. 

The welcoming party. 

I don't care what the herder said, there's no milk today! 

Ahhh, the finish line! 

Watch out for the low entry way!  She didn't. 

Rick, Pam, Dave & Geoff 

Can you see Russia? 

Our ger by morning light. 

Pam's favorite game.  Yahtzee 

Good food, friends and beers. 

 Where's that Starbucks ger?

Now that I've got staying on the horse down bring me a bow. 

No, It's not Roy Rogers.  The steeds await. 

And I haven't been to the periodontist in 3 months!!! 

Ger innard pics. 

     When we started back to UB the snow was floating to the ground as it is doing presently.  We trekked the 3.5 km to the road and waited for a bus that we were told passed by about each hour.  The local herd of horses and cows kept us entertained as they strolled across the road being defiant to the cars that seemed like they were attempting to break land speed records.   After about 30 mins. a bus flew by with the driver waving to us.    Guessed there weren't any seats left and the aisle was filled.  I focused my binoculars down the road scanning for the next bus when a van stopped and the female driver asked where we were going.  After finding out the price, which was cheaper than the bus, we filled the remaining seats.  10 of us rocked, rolled and bounced our way down the road.  Only Pam was looking forward and she gave very little indication of fear with neither facial expressions nor sounds.  I, however, watched the van sway and wondered how high the center of gravity was and looked for anything to hold onto if we were going to roll.  Obviously we made it back.  We now have some research to do about how the transportation system works here to prepare for our next outing.          

A Week Typique

Black Market Minstrels.  I'm not sure about the accordions but these two drew quite a crowd. 

The happy teacher.  "Can't wait for the massage!!!"

Hi one and all,  Pam is on the mend finally and the Indian Summer weather continues to grace us.  We've been experiencing 20's-30's in the a.m. but by midday we're blessed with 60's.  The blue sky is almost always present since the real cold hasn't hit us causing the gers to fire up their stoves and burn low quality coal.
     I thought you might like an idea of what our typical week is like.  It starts with the horn blowing and the rumble of a train around 5:30 which I still haven't gotten use to.  By about 7:15 Pam and I head off walking to school even though the school sends a bus to pick up staff and students at 7:30.  We tend to pass the same elderly couple each morning and exchange hellos accompanied with vapor steams,  ours in Mongolian and theirs sometimes in English.  The guard at the school gate has a great smile and wave for us upon arrival.  Once at school there is tea and hot water for Nescafe waiting.  This luxury remains at the ready all day taken care of by one of the custodians.
     The school day is made of 8 periods with subjects sometimes being a full block (2 periods).  School starts for the kids at 8:20 and ends at 2:50.  They have classes in 2 languages, art, music, math, science, humanities, PE, design tech (shop) and drama.  There is a break at midmorning for the primary students who usually runaround outside, play foosball, ping pong or shoot pool.  The school has 4 ping pong tables and 2 pool tables along with a foosball table that are used again after lunch when the students have some down time.
     The students participate in after school activities from 3:00-4:00 from Tues. - Thurs.   The number of activities is up to them.  The activities, which we are required to offer, are varied for example, organizing and running recreational activities for severely disabled students from a local school to additional English practice to fly tying/fishing.
     Faculty meetings are Monday afternoons from 4ish to 5:00.  Prior to that teachers meet within their programs to address issues or concerns.
     Wednesdays, the blind masseuse and her husband, who is also a masseuse, come to the school for about 2 hours and offer 20 min. massages for roughly $6.50.  The signup sheet fills up quickly and there is such a demand the couple is staying an extra half hour.  I feel so great afterwards and now that they are staying later Pam is a happy camper.
     Friday mornings is "Shake and Bake" time.  Four staff members bring in breakfast for all the other staff who have committed to bringing in breakfast on a Friday.  It's a great way to get the Friday going.  During the week, we can get croissants, petite pain au chocolate, or a ham and cheese croissant baked by the French chef and his staff.  One bite and you're looking for the Eiffle Tower out the window.
     I have been assigned to give support to the 6th grade class because of the number of struggling students in that grade.  When I'm not in a class with them I'm observing other students of concern from kindergarten to 12 grade.  I meet with teachers to discuss teaching strategies or meet with students to put together organizational plans, offer study techniques or put together behavior plans to address behaviors.   In addition to our teaching duties there are non teaching duties dependent on the number of classes that one teaches.  I have five 20 minute blocks per week.  The day flies by.  The school website is www.isumongolia.edu.mn  There is a weekly news letter on line in English and Mongolian and soon to be in Korean.  This week the visiting accreditation committees are here followed by October break.  Pam and I are hoping to get in some sight seeing with other staff staying here.  Coming up...Naming a baby in Mongolia and a surreal evening of salsa dancing.  Cheers!            

The End of September

This is a traditional Mongolian design that is seen throughout the country.

Snow has arrived here

The new hiking activity.  It may possibly replace scenic viewing. 

The summit of Tsetsee Gun in sight. 

One of 4 holy sights in the Bodg Khan Mountains.  This is called an "ovoo" like oboe.  The blue strips of material symbolize prayers that were delivered at this sight.  We are at about 7500ft. 

 The Mongolian sky is stunning once UB is left behind.  

 This is a Mongolian saddle that is being sold in the Black Market.  Looks comfy?

These are ger hangings to decorate the interior of a ger.

This last week in September brought the first significant snowfall.  We woke Tuesday morning to find the ground and surrounding mountains with an entire new look.  SNOW!  The white was distilled with the colors of the golden grass that continued to show through the 3-4" we received.  Even though the snow has arrived the brutal cold that all the veterans seem to talk about with a smirk on their faces hasn't.  Can't wait!!!  The green plastic grass continues to be laid on the blacktop which excites all of the soccer (footballers) players.  They're hoping the job is done before frostbite season sets it.  I've got a feeling that the local herders will be lining their herds up outside our fence with all the green stuff.  The injury list from last week's overnight camping trip still includes Pam.  Due to lingering swelling in her leg it was time to head to the health clinic.  After a few show and tell moments and the doctor wanting some hands-on time to see just how high Pam can levitate it was decided that she needed to take it easy this weekend and keep her leg up as much as possible.  That seems to be doing the trick but Pam still wanted some Ben Gay type stuff.  So, the language lesson moved to the pharmacy.  After 30 minutes, and being handed most pain pills that existed in the pharmacy, acting out sore muscles and rubbing them with something, showing the clerk the Mongolian/English dictionary and pointing at the word ointment, and having a passerby who spoke some English help out, I emerged victorious (I think) with an ointment that hopefully will do the trick.  When I say I'll be back in a minute there is a whole new meaning here.  The YAC's, my after school activity group, headed into the local mountains again to climb the highest peak in the area and one of the 4 most sacred sights around UB.  The name of the place is Tsetsee Gun.  Our numbers have dwindled for various reasons but we left Sat. morning with 2 girls and 2 guys plus one faculty member and the English bloke, Dave and moi.  It was another glorious day that was questionable at first as we headed south into the brown fog of pollution that hung above one on the four power plants.  As we bounced our way to the trail head on paved roads our progress was slowed by a herd of sheep and goats that the driver wasn't going to slow down for.  I think he was looking at possible trail food.  Then a small herd of cattle ambled across the road looking for more dead grass to eat.  I wonder how these animals survive.  My amazement continued at how the dirt/gravel roads were smoother than the paved roads.  By the time one arrives at their destination it's like having participated in a zumba class.            The trail head was at the sight of a temple that the Soviets destroyed during their reign.  The trail to the top was very well marked in yellow blazes with the occasional ovoo, a sacred Shaman sight marked with a pile of rocks, like a cairn, or a tree drapped with sheets of materials mostly blue.  These represent prayers that were given while at the sight.  As we huffed and puffed our way to the top a group of Mongolians passed us with an obviously newly purchased dartboard.  We came upon the group a short while later.  They were in the process of hanging the board on a tree and tossing the darts.  We stood their entertained by these guys as they threw their darts at the board while friends walked in front of the board or stood by the tree.  The darts somehow managed not to hit any breathing soul but found their way to the tree, ground and from time to time the board.  At one point I thought an execution was about to take place as someone walked in front of the dartboard as 6 Mongolians armed with darts, aimed for the board and threw.  Somehow he emerged without looking like a porcupine.  After the entertaining moment we made our way to the summit to find a massive ovoo.  The sun was bright but the air was cold enough to make it difficult to unscrew the top from my water bottle.  As we lunched Mongolians who had made the trek stood by the ovoo and threw milk, vodka and water into the air and walked around the ovoo numerous times.  I need to research these rituals more to share an accurate account of why these things are done.  One of the reasons the YACs are doing these adventures is to receive a John Muir Award.  The kids were encouraged to do some trail cleanup on the way down.  So armed with large trash bags we started picking up trash.  Tossing garbage anywhere seems to be an acceptable practice.  We did, however, hear other Mongolians say as they headed to the summit that they were surprised to see expats and Mongolians picking up rubbish and that they should also do the same.  Maybe, just maybe, we can make a difference.  The school is preparing for accreditation teams to arrive next week.  This will be an evaluation by 3 accrediting agencies one of which is NEASC, another is the IB and the third slips my mind presently.  Having been through 3 of these back in the States I'm looking forward to doing a comparison.   Let me know if there is something specific that you'd like me to share or find out about.    Cheers to one and all.

Sept. 25th: Field trips

 What's a soybean?

 This can't be beans!!

 The hat is cool.  Where are the beans?

 No way I'm arm wrestling either of these two.

 What, these are beans too?

My smile says I know this will quiet them down.  

 What language is this?

 Is it art?

 We're off!  Just don't look up.

 Thank God we're now on flat ground!

 I think it's this way.  Are there any volunteers that want to check it out?

 I'll wait here until the ibuprofen starts to work.

This is a Shaman prayer pile.  We added a lot a rocks to make sure we had a good trip.  Pam needed to add a few more rocks.

This has been a busy week full of field trips that culminated in an overnight backpacking trip with my after school activity (ASA), the YACs (Young Adventurers Club).  It seems I've become a popular chaperone for field trips.  The trips have been great for a number of reasons; one being I get to spend time with kids from different grades and get to know their teachers a bit better.  Two, I'm also getting to see places in UB that I'd never think of seeing or probably never be able to find.  The 2nd grade class visited a soybean factory.  We all got to see the processes to producing soy milk, soy meat, soy flour and other soy products that I'm sure I've forgotten.  Talk about labor intensive, we watched 2 women chopping up a soy product that was going to be turned into soy meat or soy tofu.  They chop for hours.  The best part of the tour was the opportunity to try stir fry and pastries made from soybeans.  Absolutely delicious!  On our way to the factory, as our driver fought the continuous battle to gain a few millimeters of blacktop, we came to a roundabout.  At this spot I stared in amazement at a Mongolian on horseback trying to find a momentary opportunity to get his horse into the flow of traffic to get to some destination.  As our bus dodged the multitude of other dodging cars and trucks I saw the horseman join the flow of traffic with a look of confidence that he must have developed long ago when he learned how to ride as a young boy.  No wonder the Mongolians are considered some of the best horse people in the world.  The next trip had me escorting 7th graders to a wall outside of the train station to take photos of local graffiti artists that the students were then going to analyze and determine if the work was art or defacement of property.  Then on Sat. Pam, Dave, from England, myself and 13 students began a long steep climb up to a ridge with various forms of backpacks that had sleeping bags, pads, food, snacks and clothing hanging from them.  As we unloaded the van to begin the ascent and feeling the weight that some of the kids were caring I was sure this was going to be like one of those car rides that every parent hates.  WHEN ARE WE GOING TO GET THERE?  I'M TIRED.  I'M HUNGRY.  HOW MUCH LONGER?  I was truly amazed.  These kids are tough.  No complaining, they were in pretty good shape, asked questions and completed the hike to where we spent the night in a pine forest.  No, these kids are not aliens as some demonstrated at the campsite by jumping over stoves as people were trying to cook or not attaching the gas bottle correctly resulting in a near bonfire.  Pam loved getting out of UB even though she had a crash and burn moment that we're keeping on eye on to make sure we don't have to go the the health center for X-rays later this week.  The weather cooperated with two beautiful warm days and a cool night that required down jackets.  Fall has arrived turning the larch and white birch into a painter's pallet of various hues of yellows, golds and browns.  From our vantage point we could see the brownish haze of UB that may also indicate fall is here with an increase in heat producing smoke coming from the stacks of the various power plants in the city.  What a contrast in such a short distance.  As we headed back to where the bus was going to pick us up it was apparent that the distance is getting shorter as we witnessed numerous construction sites on the edge of the mountains.   In addition to the trips Friday found us with a group of friends in a local karaoke joint.  Here you get a private room for so much an hour with a playlist that includes Korean, Chinese, British and American songs, disco lights, two microphones and couches all around.  You can order drinks from the bar that doubles as a welcome desk or you can bring in your own booze and snacks.  What a hoot!  We just discovered that this past week our cable provider, I'm not sure I should refer to them as a provider it's more like an attempter, now has ESPN HD as well as ESPN standard and ESPN News.  Pam and I watched Saturday's Red Sox/Yankees game which, for us Boston fans, was painful.  Eat your hearts out you HCC gym rats!  That's it from Shangri La.  I hope anyone who is reading this is realizing that Mongolia is a unique country that deserves consideration for a visit.  Cheers!!          

Sept. 18, 2011

                                 

 This was a traditional dance staged at our apartment complex to celebrate something???  We heard that it was the 5th anniversary of the apartment complex.

 The excitement was contagious.

I thought I had that light pointing in the right direction.

  Life here is starting to get cold.  Yesterday it was 0 degrees C.  There was a fall festival at school, and it was a bit chilly, but when the sun finally came out things were tolerable.  There were 2 performances during the festival.  One was a native North American dance done by an Inuit from Canada who was on a cultural exchange.  Our director is from Canada so I suspect that he has some pull with the Canadian Embassy to get this guy to come to the school and perform.  The other was a local Mongolian group playing contemporary music with traditional instruments and doing some throat singing.  Amazing!  School is going well.  The atmosphere is so positive, the kids work hard for the most part and, for once, I feel appreciated by the admin and staff for the services I'm providing.  Talk about knowing how to treat the staff,  starting last Wednesday there are 2 massage therapists who come to the school and offer 20 min. massages for 8000 Toogrig (about $6.50) to staff during the lunch periods.  Last week I was occupied but I'm clearing my schedule for this Wed.  Pam has been struggling because the school had to take the other ESL teacher and move her to 1st grade when that teacher suddenly left.  Pam's responsible for providing services to students from 1st to 5th grade and the numbers are LARGE.  She did get word last week that the school just hired another ESL teacher from Chicago, so she should be arriving in country in the next 3 weeks if the visa process goes alright.  I'm headed into the mountains for an overnight with a group of kids this weekend.  There is a club called the YACS (Young Adventurers Club) that an English guy and I are running.  Thankfully my winter sleeping bag just arrived because the weather is changing fast here.  On that note, we've been told to get out of town over the 3 week holiday break beginning in December, so we took people's advice and are going to Bali to meet up with a friend of Pam's who lives in India.  We did initially consider heading to Japan to do some skiing, but we have free lodging in Bali for part of the time plus the opportunity to see Pam's friend tipped the scales.  The weekends here are spent usually hanging out with other staff from school eating, drinking and sharing stories from all parts of the world.  The experience is so stimulating, and we're meeting all sorts of people working in the mines, the embassies and NGO's.  There is a lot to learn from all these other cultures that could definitely benefit life back home.  In a pinch, if there is nothing scheduled, there is always one of many Irish pubs to head to for a Guinness or a Chinggis.  The new turf is being laid at school this week so it will be nice to have the soccer team practice on something other than blacktop. If you want to see what UB looks like go to Google Earth and you can see our apartment complex (Bayan Mongol) and the school and well as many of the other points of interest.  Cheers to one and all!  

Sept. 10, 2011

Hi everyone,  It's been 2 weeks since my last post and a lot has happened.  The posted pictures are from last week's camp that comprised of 60+ kids doing everything from technical rock climbing to dismantling and reconstructing a ger to playing team-building games and hikes, both day and night.  Yes, there are still places in the world where one doesn't have to deal with light and noise pollution.  The night sky is simply amazing when not drowned out by other lights.  As I looked at the brightness of the Ursas and a "milky" Milky Way I was struck by how minute we are in the universe.  Being in this predominantly undeveloped land has an effect that is causing me to reexamine priorities and question values that we are influenced by the media back in the States.  This camp was a great way to start off the year.  Despite kids of many different nationalities, athletic abilities, languages and incomes there seems to be a mutual respect and acceptance that replaces the cliques and the haves and have nots that often accompanies schools back home.  I'm not saying that there are no cliques here but they are not adversarial.  We've just completed our 3rd week at school.  For some a routine is being established, however, Pam and I are not a part of that.  Our jobs have us going in many different directions and attempting to put some order, policies and procedures in place so that the students can get the support services they need as quickly as possible.  I'm not sure whether it is the size of the school (about 300 students), the administration, the faculty or all of the mentioned,  but the school has a very positive vibe coming from it.  There are lots of activities for staff put on by the social committee.  For example on Fridays 4 people sign up to provide breakfast for other staff who also signed up to do a breakfast.  There was a reception for the new teachers last night by the school board with plenty of food and drink.  Many students at ISU have a great work ethic but it isn't 100%.  I've been working with many students that need organizational skills, math and language help, behavior plans and the occasional call home to the parents to inform them that their students are not completing assignments.  The administration is fairly quick to respond to teacher needs and are receptive to teacher ideas on ways to make improvements at the school.  There is also very good communication.  It is not perfect but there is an awareness that it is a foundation that makes the school environment better and there seems to be an effort on the staff's part to improve it.  The weather's been fluctuating quite a bit lately.  Today it's like Indian Summer.  Earlier in the week we saw frost in the surrounding mountain trees and some snow near the tops which are not that higher than we are.  And the talk continues about the winter cold.  Can't wait to experience the -40 C.  We had the first football (soccer) get together today.  I have been designated the boys coach.  There is some talent and the boys appear that they want to learn and improve.  Right now we are playing on blacktop as we wait for a new turf field to be laid.  Talk about fast play!!!  Enough from my side.  Pam's turn when she returns from yoga with a woman from Mexico City that she met yesterday.    

6th - 8th grade 3 day camp in Terelj

 Orientation:  6th-8th graders welcome to Heaven's Envoy Ger Camp

 Ger Sweet Ger

 Technical Climbing was done on granite like this.

 ISU staff moment

 The temps dropped quickly so we were glad to have this stove in the ger.  A ger camp employee stopped in at about 6am to fire this up so we'd get out of bed in a warm ger.  

 No movement as the sun starts to light up the area. 

 Off on a 3+ hour hike.

 Kids are the same all over

 This is the area where the hike was.

 This fire felt great.

Keeping eye on the "wild animals" during a game of "predator/prey".