Mongol experiences: Post Tsagaan Sar Shaman Festival

This was a real cultural experience that we stumbled upon. The first full moon since the end of Tsagaan Sar occurred last Thursday, and it is a very religious day for Shamanism which we were unaware of. It was also International Women's Day, so school was closed. We wondered why the US doesn't celebrate this. Has the country maxed out days off for workers?

Back to the story. Pam, two friends and I headed out to walk up the solidly frozen Tuul River. As we slid our way upstream, we began to hear beating drums and then caught sight of lots of parked cars. The hike was suddenly put on hold, and we scrambled up the river banks to check out the activity.

We were greeted with a kaleidoscope of colors, sounds and activities. There was a large fire blazing away warming some of the Mongolians that had obviously come to see one or more shamans. In addition, there were many blankets on the ground with bowls of milk, cups of vodka, the Tsagaan Sar centerpiece of biscuits and yogurt cheese toppings and, of course, mutton. As we walked around, we became aware that we were causing more than a few heads to look our way. It appeared that we were the only expats to grace this festival.

During the circumnavigation of the area, we witnessed people flicking milk or vodka into the air, onto the ground and towards the people. This is to pay tribute to the sky, earth and people. We also saw numerous male and female shamans dressed in costume in various stages of trances that involved beating drums, being cared for by non-shamans, smoking cigarettes made up with what we were not sure, and speaking in strange voices. Some people were being beaten ( not harmfully) by shamans which we later found out was to drive evil spirits out either for themselves or for family members.

As we stood mesmerized, a young man spoke to us in English and asked if we'd like to talk with his sister, a shaman. Tolga, also a shaman, shared with us that he'd recently returned from the U. of Wash. where he'd been studying for the last 2 years. An invitation like this was impossible to pass up. Tolga's sister was in a trance when he had me sit next to her. He explained that at the moment her body was occupied by an 800 year old spirit. When I related my surprise upon seeing women shamans, he said that the women are much more powerful shamans than men. He also shared that different shamans have particular expertise. Some can address physical maladies while others can tell fortunes. While I sat with Tolga's sister asking questions about future events, I became aware that a large group of Mongolians had encircled us. Perhaps it was a sight to see an expat conversing with a shaman through an interpreter.

After finishing speaking with his sister, Tolga asked if we'd like to speak with the teacher of shamans. The response was a no brainer. He said that he would ask if she'd be willing to speak with us, which she agreed to. During a trance no eye contact is made. Tolga translated a few questions that the shaman had about my nationality and work. It was then my turn for the questions, and she said that I'd be staying in Mongolia longer than my contract, that my kids would appreciate their visit here this summer more so after their return home, and that I'd be getting involved in a lucrative business. Pam was told she has Mongolian blood in her through her maternal lineage and has a connection with Chinggis Khan.

Time will tell about these predictions but, in the meantime, this experience has both of us wanting to learn more about shamanism and keep working at improving our Mongolian language.

Ken, Andy, Pam and I on the Tuul River