Two Days Away

     We just returned from the countryside.  This is our fall break so we have a week off.   Pam and two friends of ours went to a place called Mongolian Secret History Ger Camp.  We stayed in large gers with stoves that didn't warm the place up but did take the chill off.  The weather was great so it wasn't a big issue.  This place was tucked back in a valley blanketed with white birch and pine.  The 3.5 km walk from the road was treeless and could have passed for the desert except for hints of farming on the ground.  During the stroll to the camp we had to negotiate herds of cows, sheep and goats as the herder watched from the back of his horse.  I wonder what was going through his mind as he saw four "pointy noses" with backpacks taking pics of animals at a watering hole.
     The weather was amazingly warm.  We were all sweating after the walk from the road where the bus dropped us off.  Once we made it to the camp we were treated to a great meal that needed to be walked off so we headed into the woods and found some fantastic views from the ridge of the surrounding hills.  The camp also offered horse and camel rides.  We took advantage of the horse rides with a guide that spoke no English but kept our horses moving with "chi, chi" from his lips.  The staff was very attentive to our requests even bringing to our ger a thermos of hot water, tea, coffee and the essential fixings.  Once the sun went down we brought out Yahtzee and Cribbage.  We diluted the competitive juices with wine so that we could go to bed and still be talking to each other.  
      We tried out the local transportation which is comfortable and much cheaper than hiring a driver.  The inside of our bus was decorated with purple trappings with lots of tassels and a large screen tv showing a kaleidoscopic image of someone singing.  This provided a topic for conversation for a number of km.  The ger camp is about two hours NW of UB.  Our cab driver took care of us making sure we got the right tickets and bus to our destination.  He even spoke with the bus driver about where we were headed which was not a normal stop.  We climbed onto the bus and plopped down in the front four seats next to the smiling assistant who tried unsuccessfully to communicate with us.  So, there were mostly smiles exchange between us.  After a rest stop we rumbled down the road with the driver's assistant looking at our map.  He then had a quick conversation with the driver who suddenly made an announcement over the loudspeaker and a young man made his way up front.  Putting the puzzle pieces together we figured that they weren't sure where to drop us off and they were looking for someone to translate or read a map.  The guy who came forward didn't seem to be able to do either.  Then the bus stopped in the middle of the road and proceeded to try and make a three point turn with deep ditches on both sides of the road.  Within a moment we were headed back the way we came as groans and interrogative intonations floated through the bus.  We slumped in our seats realizing that we were the cause of this change in direction and thankful that we didn't have to look into the faces of the passengers.  After only a few km the advising committee to the driver decided that the drop off point for the foreigners was further down the road so another 180 degree turn was made.  After coming over a small knoll there was a sign probably 25 ft. high announcing where the ger camp was.  I think I heard a sigh of relief from behind us as the bus door opened and we got off.  The driver and assistant said good-bye with smiles and we felt good that we introduced the locals to their surrounding venues.

Geoff and Pam hydrating before the 3.5 km trek.  Chinggis works well. 

The welcoming party. 

I don't care what the herder said, there's no milk today! 

Ahhh, the finish line! 

Watch out for the low entry way!  She didn't. 

Rick, Pam, Dave & Geoff 

Can you see Russia? 

Our ger by morning light. 

Pam's favorite game.  Yahtzee 

Good food, friends and beers. 

 Where's that Starbucks ger?

Now that I've got staying on the horse down bring me a bow. 

No, It's not Roy Rogers.  The steeds await. 

And I haven't been to the periodontist in 3 months!!! 

Ger innard pics. 

     When we started back to UB the snow was floating to the ground as it is doing presently.  We trekked the 3.5 km to the road and waited for a bus that we were told passed by about each hour.  The local herd of horses and cows kept us entertained as they strolled across the road being defiant to the cars that seemed like they were attempting to break land speed records.   After about 30 mins. a bus flew by with the driver waving to us.    Guessed there weren't any seats left and the aisle was filled.  I focused my binoculars down the road scanning for the next bus when a van stopped and the female driver asked where we were going.  After finding out the price, which was cheaper than the bus, we filled the remaining seats.  10 of us rocked, rolled and bounced our way down the road.  Only Pam was looking forward and she gave very little indication of fear with neither facial expressions nor sounds.  I, however, watched the van sway and wondered how high the center of gravity was and looked for anything to hold onto if we were going to roll.  Obviously we made it back.  We now have some research to do about how the transportation system works here to prepare for our next outing.          

A Week Typique

Black Market Minstrels.  I'm not sure about the accordions but these two drew quite a crowd. 

The happy teacher.  "Can't wait for the massage!!!"

Hi one and all,  Pam is on the mend finally and the Indian Summer weather continues to grace us.  We've been experiencing 20's-30's in the a.m. but by midday we're blessed with 60's.  The blue sky is almost always present since the real cold hasn't hit us causing the gers to fire up their stoves and burn low quality coal.
     I thought you might like an idea of what our typical week is like.  It starts with the horn blowing and the rumble of a train around 5:30 which I still haven't gotten use to.  By about 7:15 Pam and I head off walking to school even though the school sends a bus to pick up staff and students at 7:30.  We tend to pass the same elderly couple each morning and exchange hellos accompanied with vapor steams,  ours in Mongolian and theirs sometimes in English.  The guard at the school gate has a great smile and wave for us upon arrival.  Once at school there is tea and hot water for Nescafe waiting.  This luxury remains at the ready all day taken care of by one of the custodians.
     The school day is made of 8 periods with subjects sometimes being a full block (2 periods).  School starts for the kids at 8:20 and ends at 2:50.  They have classes in 2 languages, art, music, math, science, humanities, PE, design tech (shop) and drama.  There is a break at midmorning for the primary students who usually runaround outside, play foosball, ping pong or shoot pool.  The school has 4 ping pong tables and 2 pool tables along with a foosball table that are used again after lunch when the students have some down time.
     The students participate in after school activities from 3:00-4:00 from Tues. - Thurs.   The number of activities is up to them.  The activities, which we are required to offer, are varied for example, organizing and running recreational activities for severely disabled students from a local school to additional English practice to fly tying/fishing.
     Faculty meetings are Monday afternoons from 4ish to 5:00.  Prior to that teachers meet within their programs to address issues or concerns.
     Wednesdays, the blind masseuse and her husband, who is also a masseuse, come to the school for about 2 hours and offer 20 min. massages for roughly $6.50.  The signup sheet fills up quickly and there is such a demand the couple is staying an extra half hour.  I feel so great afterwards and now that they are staying later Pam is a happy camper.
     Friday mornings is "Shake and Bake" time.  Four staff members bring in breakfast for all the other staff who have committed to bringing in breakfast on a Friday.  It's a great way to get the Friday going.  During the week, we can get croissants, petite pain au chocolate, or a ham and cheese croissant baked by the French chef and his staff.  One bite and you're looking for the Eiffle Tower out the window.
     I have been assigned to give support to the 6th grade class because of the number of struggling students in that grade.  When I'm not in a class with them I'm observing other students of concern from kindergarten to 12 grade.  I meet with teachers to discuss teaching strategies or meet with students to put together organizational plans, offer study techniques or put together behavior plans to address behaviors.   In addition to our teaching duties there are non teaching duties dependent on the number of classes that one teaches.  I have five 20 minute blocks per week.  The day flies by.  The school website is www.isumongolia.edu.mn  There is a weekly news letter on line in English and Mongolian and soon to be in Korean.  This week the visiting accreditation committees are here followed by October break.  Pam and I are hoping to get in some sight seeing with other staff staying here.  Coming up...Naming a baby in Mongolia and a surreal evening of salsa dancing.  Cheers!            

The End of September

This is a traditional Mongolian design that is seen throughout the country.

Snow has arrived here

The new hiking activity.  It may possibly replace scenic viewing. 

The summit of Tsetsee Gun in sight. 

One of 4 holy sights in the Bodg Khan Mountains.  This is called an "ovoo" like oboe.  The blue strips of material symbolize prayers that were delivered at this sight.  We are at about 7500ft. 

 The Mongolian sky is stunning once UB is left behind.  

 This is a Mongolian saddle that is being sold in the Black Market.  Looks comfy?

These are ger hangings to decorate the interior of a ger.

This last week in September brought the first significant snowfall.  We woke Tuesday morning to find the ground and surrounding mountains with an entire new look.  SNOW!  The white was distilled with the colors of the golden grass that continued to show through the 3-4" we received.  Even though the snow has arrived the brutal cold that all the veterans seem to talk about with a smirk on their faces hasn't.  Can't wait!!!  The green plastic grass continues to be laid on the blacktop which excites all of the soccer (footballers) players.  They're hoping the job is done before frostbite season sets it.  I've got a feeling that the local herders will be lining their herds up outside our fence with all the green stuff.  The injury list from last week's overnight camping trip still includes Pam.  Due to lingering swelling in her leg it was time to head to the health clinic.  After a few show and tell moments and the doctor wanting some hands-on time to see just how high Pam can levitate it was decided that she needed to take it easy this weekend and keep her leg up as much as possible.  That seems to be doing the trick but Pam still wanted some Ben Gay type stuff.  So, the language lesson moved to the pharmacy.  After 30 minutes, and being handed most pain pills that existed in the pharmacy, acting out sore muscles and rubbing them with something, showing the clerk the Mongolian/English dictionary and pointing at the word ointment, and having a passerby who spoke some English help out, I emerged victorious (I think) with an ointment that hopefully will do the trick.  When I say I'll be back in a minute there is a whole new meaning here.  The YAC's, my after school activity group, headed into the local mountains again to climb the highest peak in the area and one of the 4 most sacred sights around UB.  The name of the place is Tsetsee Gun.  Our numbers have dwindled for various reasons but we left Sat. morning with 2 girls and 2 guys plus one faculty member and the English bloke, Dave and moi.  It was another glorious day that was questionable at first as we headed south into the brown fog of pollution that hung above one on the four power plants.  As we bounced our way to the trail head on paved roads our progress was slowed by a herd of sheep and goats that the driver wasn't going to slow down for.  I think he was looking at possible trail food.  Then a small herd of cattle ambled across the road looking for more dead grass to eat.  I wonder how these animals survive.  My amazement continued at how the dirt/gravel roads were smoother than the paved roads.  By the time one arrives at their destination it's like having participated in a zumba class.            The trail head was at the sight of a temple that the Soviets destroyed during their reign.  The trail to the top was very well marked in yellow blazes with the occasional ovoo, a sacred Shaman sight marked with a pile of rocks, like a cairn, or a tree drapped with sheets of materials mostly blue.  These represent prayers that were given while at the sight.  As we huffed and puffed our way to the top a group of Mongolians passed us with an obviously newly purchased dartboard.  We came upon the group a short while later.  They were in the process of hanging the board on a tree and tossing the darts.  We stood their entertained by these guys as they threw their darts at the board while friends walked in front of the board or stood by the tree.  The darts somehow managed not to hit any breathing soul but found their way to the tree, ground and from time to time the board.  At one point I thought an execution was about to take place as someone walked in front of the dartboard as 6 Mongolians armed with darts, aimed for the board and threw.  Somehow he emerged without looking like a porcupine.  After the entertaining moment we made our way to the summit to find a massive ovoo.  The sun was bright but the air was cold enough to make it difficult to unscrew the top from my water bottle.  As we lunched Mongolians who had made the trek stood by the ovoo and threw milk, vodka and water into the air and walked around the ovoo numerous times.  I need to research these rituals more to share an accurate account of why these things are done.  One of the reasons the YACs are doing these adventures is to receive a John Muir Award.  The kids were encouraged to do some trail cleanup on the way down.  So armed with large trash bags we started picking up trash.  Tossing garbage anywhere seems to be an acceptable practice.  We did, however, hear other Mongolians say as they headed to the summit that they were surprised to see expats and Mongolians picking up rubbish and that they should also do the same.  Maybe, just maybe, we can make a difference.  The school is preparing for accreditation teams to arrive next week.  This will be an evaluation by 3 accrediting agencies one of which is NEASC, another is the IB and the third slips my mind presently.  Having been through 3 of these back in the States I'm looking forward to doing a comparison.   Let me know if there is something specific that you'd like me to share or find out about.    Cheers to one and all.